Our man in Tuscany

I woke up this Wednesday morning to a sizzling hot day, but pleasantly so—unlike the oppressive 52°C heat I experienced in Delhi. Today’s adventure: a jolly jaunt to Lucca. 

The drive from San Romano in Garfagnana to Lucca was a delight. My Golf GTD was in its element, gliding smoothly over the beautiful, well-surfaced mountain and valley roads. The car purred with satisfaction as it wound through the picturesque landscapes, reminding me of why I love driving in Italy. I was off to meet Luca Trinchera, my Italian lawyer and friend. 

Before our rendezvous, I stopped at a car wash garage outside Lucca. Refugee boys there hand-washed my GTD, and they did an excellent job. Their diligence and care reflected the pride they took in their work, a humbling and heartwarming experience. Next, I popped into a Sri Lankan shop in the centre of Lucca for some Far Eastern groceries. The shop was a hidden gem, stocked with spices and ingredients that brought back memories of my travels. 

Outside the city walls at Porta Santa Maria, I paused to reflect on history. This was where Julius Caesar and Pompey, once arch enemies, struck a treaty to combat barbarians and other mischief-makers. Standing there, I could almost hear the echoes of ancient negotiations, a stark reminder of the region’s rich and tumultuous history. 

As I resumed my journey, the tyre pressure light came on. I found a tyre repair shop and discovered a nail embedded in the low-profile rear tyre. Pneumatici Riccardo’s garage on the outskirts of Lucca handled the repair with no fuss. Their service was efficient and friendly, all at a minimal cost. The mechanic, with a broad smile, assured me it was a simple fix, turning what could have been a stressful situation into a minor detour. 

By 12:30, I was at Pane e Marmellata café/restaurant for lunch, confirmed via WhatsApp by Luca. The café exuded simple elegance. A beautiful, multi-tasking waitress with a loud smile offered great service, enhancing the homely atmosphere where everyone engaged in face-to-face conversations, free from the distractions of mobile phones and social media. My meal was delightful: Caesar salad, apple crumble, sparkling water, red wine served elegantly in lovely glassware, and a perfect espresso. 

Fortezza Verrucole

Luca and I had a great chat about my recent trips to India and Malaysia, legal cases, and managing client expectations. We discussed truth being a tricky business and court proceedings being an expensive and painful project. I shared how my travels reinforced my feeling that Tuscany is truly my home. We also marvelled at Italy’s beauty, Tuscany’s charm, and the enduring impact of the Italian Renaissance on the Western world since the 15th century. 

The drive back to San Romano was accompanied by the music of South American band Mana unplugged, as I put the GTD through its paces, having missed driving it for nearly seven months due to my travels. The roads welcomed me back, curving through landscapes that seemed to have been painted by an artist. I stopped at the brilliant Esselunga Supermarket for groceries, olive oil, and local wine. The store’s combination of low prices, high quality, and elegant service is part of Italian excellence. 

As the 1979 hit “Angel” played by RDS Relax Station on the radio, I reflected on my journey. Angels, indeed, have watched over me, George, and now DJ Geetha’s recently passed dog in Kuala Lumpur, who has joined the Holy Trinity. The scenery shifted from plains to the mountainous greenery and chestnut forests of Garfagnana as I approached my sanctuary in Via San Rocco. The hilltop villages perched precariously above added a touch of magic to the landscape. 

Another wonderful day in Tuscany affirmed why I left England for Italy. The rich culture, the warmth of the people, and the breathtaking scenery make it a no-brainer. As I stepped into my home, I felt a deep sense of contentment and belonging. 

Philip George is a former badminton player and author of the book ‘Racket Boy’. He lives in Tuscany, Italy.